Greece, 2026
THURSDAY JULY 2/FRIDAY JULY 3
Because the costs to park at the airport have gone up so much, we decided to take a car service. I found one that looked fine, so I booked it. $250 which seems high but whatever.
Anyway the car is supposed to pick us at 12:45 to leave at 1:00. I get one call at 12:00 saying there's traffic and he's going to be 15 minutes late. OK no big deal. At 1:00 he calls and says he can't find the house. So he drives around the block a few times and finally see him. We get on the road at 1:15.
Anyway he's really chatty. Not in an annoying way, but it's non-stop. And with the chatting, he's not really paying attention to his GPS and he's from Allentown so he doesn't know where he is. We give him some subtle hints here and there. Once we get on 476 and he realizes he almost missed the exit he quiets up. There's normal traffic but we're at the airport by 2:20 pm.
It takes no time to go through security, with no issues. So we go to the United Club to sit for the 90 minutes we have before our 4:20 pm flight…which is delayed until 4:35 due to some delays on the inbound flight. So we have a piece of cake and charge our phones.
We are on Air Canada flight AC8517 to Toronto. In seats 1D/F. It's a little tight getting our bags in the overhead because of the smaller plane size, but we make it work. Sometimes you have to struggle when flying first class!!
The flight is a delayed a little longer due to some logjams with other planes, but we're in the air by 5 pm. Flight is easy enough and we're off the plane by 6:20. It's the typical long walk to the connection area, but we don't go through any border control or anything.
We walk to the Air Canada Signature Suite (which I thought was the Maple Leaf Lounge. It was not). It's more like a restaurant than a lounge. But they have drinks and eats so Cher gets a Marzipan Kir (Dillon’s Rye, Amaretto, Dillon’s Cassie, rhubarb bitters, sparkling wine), and I get a Creemore Springs Amber Lager. It's not great. Cher also gets Za’tar Falafel which looks good . I don't get any food. We try the sweet corn ice cream for dessert which isn't that great. But Cher loves the place since its different than a normal lounge and her food is good.
While we wait, we are seated next to 3 people around our age going to Sweden and Lofoten Norway. They are nice enough.
We walk to the gate which is like 1 minute away. There's really nowhere to sit around any of these gates so we basically just stand next to the gate. We have about 20 minutes before we board anyway so we just stand around, and talk to this older couple from Vancouver.
We are on Air Canada AC920 to Athens. We are in seats 2D and 3D, which are decent lie flats, but not pods with the most privacy. Still very they are nice.
Dinner is grilled portobello (with creamy polenta, tomato confit, and chimichurri sauce) for Cher, and hoisin glazed chicken leg (with vegetable stir fry noodles and sautéed gai lan (Chinese broccoli) for me. It’s fine.
We sit at the gate for 20 minutes or so because the airport tug vehicle thing that pulls or pushes the plane away is broken from the heat. That's a new one. But we are moving by around 10 pm…and we then taxi for like another 20 minutes before we actually get airborne.
The flight is fine. The food is ok not great. We take our ambien and get a few hours of sleep. It's not the most comfortable seat to lay on but it does have a little cushion cover that helps.
We have breakfast - omelette with potatoes and sausage, or a cheese/meat plate - which are again fine.
We land in Athens at 2:00 pm. There's a reasonably long line at border control so it takes 20 minutes or so to get through, but they let us in the country no issue. Probably because I have a swarthy look that’s common in these parts!
We get a cab with a chatty driver but he seems nice enough. He has lots of suggestions on how to get to places.
Athens sits in the valley (?) between 3 hills or something. The drive from the airport takes about an hour. The landscape is very Mediterranean looking - lots of hills of white marble. There are lots of trees on the outskirts. The drive to the AirBnB isn't the most beautiful. The parts of the city we are seeing definitely need a refresh. A lot of dirt and grime on the off white buildings. The city is very hilly too.
We get stuck in some bad stop and go traffic as we get closer. We pass the Olympic Stadium.
We are staying at an apartment on Rovertou Galli, which borders the Acropolis area. It's a hilly area with narrow streets. We get to the apartment at 4:00 pm.
The apartment is small but nice enough. It's weirdly shaped, with a small kitchen and living room. We have a nice sized room with a nice bathroom - definitely the nicest of the group. Candy and Paul are next to us, and the door to their room has a really loud squeak that sounds like Floki when he yelps.
Marcella, Grace, Candy and Paul are there already. They got in at 8 am, and had a crazy story about their cab ride from the airport. They had a driver who didn’t speak English and tried to scam them. It's supposed to be a flat 40 euro from the airport to the center of Athens, and he tried to charge them 170. So they are outside the apartment arguing with the guy, and two plain clothes police drive up, and arrest the guy. Insane.
We settle in and Marcella is there to chat. The others are napping so we take a shower and get cleaned up.
The apartment building has a rooftop terrace with a crazy view of the Parthenon. It's warm but it's nice in the shade
We take a quick walk to get drinks and go to an ATM. Cher says we have to be careful to only go to ATMs associated with real banks, since there are tons of stand alone ATMs that are a little sketchy and charge high rates. The area is not super old or super nice but its fine. There’s a small market chain - Kiosky’s Convenience Store - down the block that has lots of stuff we need and we go in it like 10 times over the next 36 hours.
Back at the room we catch up with the rest of the group to go out for drinks. Candy and Paul are still getting ready so we don't wait for then. We, Marcella, and Grace walk a few blocks down the street to Point A, a rooftop bar on top of a hotel. Cheryl and Grace walk up the stairs, but Marcella and I decide to take the elevator…and end up going down instead of up). It's a pretty view of the Acropolis too (same view basically), and they light up the Parthenon as it gets dark. We order some drinks… I get a Nissos Pilsner. It's not bad…refreshing. We get some snacks - different cheeses, Aubergine croquets, small chicken sliders for me. Cher has a smoky tequila drink.
Paul and Candy finally show up, we hang around a little while, and then walk back to the hotel. We stop at the Kiosky’s get some fancy Barkleys mints - spicy peach (which I think is odd but Cher really likes) and liquorice. [When we get home, Cher orders a bunch of different flavors, thinking they are some exotic brand. It turns out they are from Washington state.]
We head back to the room, and cleaned up and in bed at 11:15 pm. It’s been a long day.
SATURDAY JULY 4
We wake up at 6:45 after a good night’s sleep. We have 8 am tickets for the Acropolis, so we leave at 7:30 am for the short walk to the entrance area. The walk to the Acropolis takes 5 minute, and there’s already a line of about 200 people when we get there. It's warm but we're standing in the shade at least.
The Acropolis of Athens is an ancient citadel located on a rocky outcrop above the city of Athens, Greece, and contains the remains of several ancient buildings of great architectural and historical significance, the most famous being the Parthenon. The word Acropolis is from Greek ἄκρον (akron) 'highest point, extremity' and πόλις (polis) 'city'. The term acropolis is generic and there are many other acropoleis in Greece. During ancient times the Acropolis of Athens was also more properly known as Cecropia, after the legendary serpent-man Cecrops, the supposed first Athenian.
Once we are let in, there’s a walk up the path to the Parthenon at the top of the hill. There’s a lot of people there, with more coming every second, and it's hot but not oppressive. But its amazing to see it after first learning about it, what, 45 years ago?
We walk back down the hill and find a small area with little restaurants and a really cool church - Holy Church of the Holy Unmercenaries of Kolokynthis (Metochion of the Holy Sepulchre).
We walk to the edge of the Plaća district. Its a pretty little area - lots of small streets and little walkways. We stop at Lýra for brunch. It's a cute little restaurant at bottom of a small alleyway that descends down a bunch of stairs. They have good fresh orange juice, and I get a strawberry, banana and orange mixed juice. Cher gets greek kagianas (eggs with spices, spinach and feta cheese on toast) and they all split Nutella pancakes. I get honey pancakes. Everything is very tasty - especially the pancakes, which may have changed Grace’s life based on how often she mentioned them the rest of the trip.
We walk to the Roman Agora, which is close. We have the some multi pass ticket that includes it, but it's a pain to download and Grace doesn’t have her ticket anyway because her phone is dead. So I let her go in on my ticket, and I stay outside. It's fine with me, it's just old ruins.
We’ve been out for most of the morning, so we walk back to the hotel to get some fresh air and refresh. Candy and Paul are sleeping maybe?
In the afternoon, we walk to the Ancient Agora. It’s large with a lot of ruins. It's fine. The afternoon is more cloudy so while it's still hot it's not as bad as it could be.
The Ancient Agora of Athens (also called the Classical Agora) is an ancient Greek agora. It is located to the northwest of the Acropolis, and bounded on the south by the hill of the Areopagus and on the west by the hill known as the Agoraios Kolonos, also called Market Hill. The Agora's initial use was for a commercial, assembly, or residential gathering place.
We walk to Monastiraki Square to pick up the City Sightseeing bus. It's a super busy area - a flea market, traditional markets, restaurants…lots of people.
Located under the shadow of the Acropolis, Monastiraki is a unique neighborhood that has been inhabited for six thousand consecutive years! It is among the oldest, most historic and important neighborhoods in Western Culture. The name “Monastiraki” was established during the Greek Revolution against the Ottoman Occupation. It was inspired by the nunnery (female monastery) that was established on the square. The area includes the Ancient Agora, one of the most important archeological sites in Athens, which was the center of the ancient city of Athens. Just next to the Monastiraki square, one will find also the Hadrian Library and the Roman Agora with the Tower of Winds
We (sans Candy and Paul) hop on the City Sightseeing Bus to the Kolonaki area and Voukourestiou Street, where the expensive shops are. Its a pedestrian street with a few blocks long, with the designer shops on both sides. Marcella wants to go to Louis Vuitton to get her passport stamped.
Back on the City Sightseeing bus for a bunch of stops on the way to the Panathenaic (Olympic) Stadium. We drive past the Parliament building, where they are doing the Changing of the Guard (same type of thing as happens at Buckingham Palace). The Olympic Stadium was built for the first modern Olympic games in 1896. It’s basically a big track and field stadium, but there’s also a somewhat hidden, small museum where most of the Olympic torches are kept. Its neat.
We decide to walk about 10 minutes to the Temple of Olympian Zeus (mostly ruins under construction), and the Arch of Hadrian. We’re hitting all the Big Tourist spots on our one day here, and we’ve basically walked and ridden in a big circle around the Acropolis.
Its been a busy afternoon and we’re getting hungry, so as we enter the main walking street in the Placa area, we stop at Plakoitis Taverna. . They get some salads, hummus, and cheese. I get the fried potatoes (French Fries), and a Fix Dark…which the waiter never brings so whatever. It's fine it's nice just to have the water, cool off and have some snacks.
On the way back to the room, Cher and Grace decide to stop at the Acropolis Museum, but Marcella and me aren’t into it, so we skip it and walk back to the room. Cheryl and Grace stop and get gelato (Aztec chocolate and hazelnut) on the way home.
We head up to the roof for sunset (which is pretty but it doesn't show at the Parthenon really). There's a family from Michigan there we talk to, and since they are leaving tomorrow they give us their unopened bottle of rosé. Marcella says it's very good. Its a beautiful night. Perfect temperature and little breeze. There’s a guy playing music at some club nearby and he's covering 80s music. Its not good. We hang out until around midnight and get to bed after a really long, but great, day in Athens.
Total Steps: 21,807
Total Miles: 10.44
SUNDAY JULY 5
Up around 7 am to pack up and get ready to leave. Cher and I walk a loop around the Acropolis again, through that Plaça area. It's nice today, warming up but still nice in the shade.
We’ll be visiting 5 islands over the rest of the trip. Two in the Ionian Sea (on the Italian side), and three in the Aegean Sea (on the Turkey side).
We have to leave the apartment at 10, and when we are leaving the next guests arrive to drop their bags off and the host's cleaner shows up too. It's a little hectic and cramped (the small elevator fits maybe 3 people without bags) but we get our stuff down.
We order an Uber van to stuff all our luggage in and it's good. The airport is pretty busy but we manage to find some places to sit scattered around. We don't know what gate to go through yet so we wait outside and get some food. There's a fair amount of food places. Cher gets a sandwich and I get a slice of pizza (which isn't bad actually). Once we find out where to go, we have to pass through security. Cher gets pulled aside for some reason but they don't really go through her bag.
We are at the gate about 90 minutes early (tho not sure when we will board). There's a lot of people getting on the plane so we have to check our larger bag. We're in the bulkhead row so we put our backpacks a few rows back.
Our flight to Kefalonia is quick - 40 minutes - and fine.
We get our bags and get a cab to Aeros Hotel in the main town of Argostoli.
Argostoli (Greek: Αργοστόλι, romanized: Argostóli, Katharevousa: Ἀργοστόλιον, romanized: Argostólion) is a town and a municipality on the island of Kefalonia, Ionian Islands, Greece. Since the 2019 local government reform it is one of the three municipalities on the island. It has been the capital and administrative centre of Kefalonia since 1757, following a population shift down from the old capital of Agios Georgios, also known as Kastro, to take advantage of the trading opportunities provided by the sheltered bay upon which Argostoli sits.
The hotel is on one side of a decent sized plaza, with restaurants all around. The room is nice but small. Once we get to the room there's a short but intense rain shower, which is apparently unusual. Apparently the summer is very dry. It doesn't last long.
We meet in the bar, and they give us each a welcome drink of our choice. Cher has a pina colada (very good), and I have a Mythos beer (not good). There are two retriever-like dogs who apparently live outside here. Both seem older but are friendly.
The hotel person recommends we go to dinner at Katsarola by Kefalos, right up the road from the hotel. It's insanely good. There's spicy feta spread, great toast with oil, Tzatziki, an olive pasta. I get Greek Sausage which was of meat origin unknown, but was tasty. Like a fennel sausage fresh off the grilled. Cher has a spinach pie, which she really loved. I had a chicken thing with mushrooms and spaghetti. A little too creamy but the chicken was so tasty. I finally have the Fix Dark, which was ok. They bring us fresh watermelon after dinner which was great. Paul and Candy get so much food. The total bill is 103 euros!! Probably the best meal we had all trip.
The hotel is block from the road that rings the water, so we wander back down towards the south part of town. There's a neat, but kinda scary, public gym park where all the weights and equipment are made of recycled metal. There are stray cats and a few stray (?) dogs.
We didn’t realize it but our hotel is at the end of the Lithostrato, a long pedestrian street with lots of shops, gelato places, and restaurants. Like a nice boardwalk. It's a great little area that we walk a few times during our stay in town.
The street of Lithostroto, literally meaning Cobble Street, is located in the heart of Argostoli, constituting its central street and a great spot for taking a stroll. Visitors will come across a white-tiled, 800-meter-long street full of people, shops, and cafes. It was one of the first streets to be paved, even since the 18th century. Its starting point is the Kampana Square and spans almost until the central square of Argostoli, the Vallianos Square. In its ending point lies the famous Municipal Theater.
We stop at Cosi, for late night drinks, but I head back to the room to use the bathroom and get cleaned up. Cher has an Ouzo, which helps gets her pipes moving. We’re bed at 11:15.
Total steps: 14,180
Total miles: 6.83
MONDAY JULY 6
We wake up around 6:30 (which becomes a bit of a pattern for this trip). So we took a walk to De Bosset Bridge.
The De Bosset Bridge (formerly Drapano Bridge) is a stone bridge built in 1813 over the bay of Argostoli in Kefalonia. At 689.9 meters, it is the longest stone bridge crossing the sea.
It's a beautiful morning, and it's very quiet in the town. People starting to open their cafes and shops, people preparing their boats for the day. There are loggerhead turtles in the bay, and one popped up right when we showed up.
We grab a cappuccino and orange juice, and then back to the hotel for breakfast. It's a basic continental breakfast, with nothing special.
The women decide what we are doing, and at 9 am the car rental comes to drop off the van. It's a Nissan Primastar, with space for 8. It's a stick so basically me and Paul are the only people who can drive it. [Spoiler: Paul never drives it]. It's nice and once we get going it's fine to drive.
We drive to the Melissani Cave. It's 45 minutes over the mountain with switchbacks and curves. It would be a lot of fun in a smaller car. Lots of nice houses. There's one small sharp turn onto a steep road, that was hard to make but otherwise driving the van through the hills was fine.
Melissani Cave is one of Kefalonia's most spectacular natural attractions, featuring:
A stunning underground lake with crystal-clear brackish waters
A collapsed roof creating a dramatic light effect (best seen 11am-1pm)
Unique geological formations dating back 20,000+ years
Water depths reaching 30 meters in places
Steeped in legend and history, Melissani Cave has captivated visitors for centuries:
In Greek mythology, the cave was home to nymphs who would lure sailors with their beauty. The cave was rediscovered in 1951 by speleologist Giannis Petrocheilos, revealing its stunning underground lake.
The cave's name comes from the nymph Melissanthi, and local legends say she drowned here after being rejected by the god Pan.
Parking at the Cave was interesting - we had to make a spot where we could. There's a reasonably long line, but it moves quickly. You take a short walk down into the cave, and there are a few small boats that float people around the cave. It was small but neat, and beautiful. The sun shines off the cave walls and it sparkles. Our boat rower was a funny guy singing songs and making jokes.
We head next to Antisamos Beach, which is one of the recommended beaches on the island.
Antisamos Beach is arguably one of the most favorable destinations for swimming and sunbathing in Kefalonia. It is located 30.6 km east of Argostoli and pretty close to the port of Sami. Antisamos stands out for its natural beauty which consists of turquoise waters and a marvelous surrounding of green hills and lush vegetation on top of it. It is this stunning scenery that characterizes this area and captivates all visitors.
There's free parking and different beach clubs. We are Acron bar and beach club, which seems to be the largest and most central. You have to pay 15 euros for the beach chairs/umbrella, and spend at least 40 euros for food and drinks. Not a bad deal, and we're a few chairs from the water.
Cher gets a Port of Evil (Bacardi Carta Blanca Rum, Bacardi Cuatro Rum, Santa Teresa 1796 Rum, grapefruit, pineapple, passion fruit, spices) and a vegan burger. I get a Teddy Berry (Bacardi Cuatro Rum, vanilla, forest berries) and regular burger. My drink is fine but hers is good. Very sweet. Burgers are fine but the fries are good.
The water is beautiful, but the beach is small white rocks, so it's a little tough on the feet, but it's nice. There are a lot of people but the chairs space people out so it's not terrible. The rocks are actually nice once you're in the water too, they are massaging and there's no sand to deal with.
There's a fair amount of clouds too so it's not super sunny. Mid afternoon there's some dark clouds and thunder, and we get a short rain shower, but then it clears again.
We hang around until about 5:30, and I guess because we gave our bartender a good tip, the waitress brought us all shots of frangelico. We drive back to the hotel, and get cleaned up for dinner (with a little Fun before).
Everyone else is tired or not that hungry, so Cher finds Aglio Olio, a pizza and Italian food place. It's down an alley off the Lithostrato, in the shade, and the pizza looks really good. We get half Margherita and half sausage because the pizzas are pretty big. I get another Fix Dark because there's not a lot and it's fine. Cher thinks it tastes like Heineken. The pizza is decent.
We walk back to the hotel, and stop in a few small shops to get Cher some soap and a sponge. We get some gelato (chocolate brownie for Cher, caramel for me). It's ok.
We meet Grace and Marcella at the hotel where they are having some leftovers, and then walk to Cosi so they can watch one of the world cup games. Cher and I get drinks - Ouzo for her, something called a Zombie (different rums, juices) for. It's boring so I have my drink and leave. Cher comes a little later. In bed at 11:15.
Ouzo (Greek: ούζο, IPA: [ˈuzo]) is a dry anise-flavored aperitif that is widely consumed in Cyprus and Greece. It is made from rectified spirits that have undergone a process of distillation and flavoring. Its taste is similar to other anise liquors like pastis, sambuca, mastika, rakı, and arak.
Total Steps: 10,383
Total Miles: 5.03
TUESDAY JULY 7
I wake up at 5:30 to go on a photo walk. The town is eeeemptyy at sunrise. I grab Cher two cappucinos (one with soy milk and one with almond because I forgot which she preferred), and wake her up at 7.
After breakfast at 8 am, we leave for Myrtos Beach. Its a beautiful horseshoe shaped beach with gorgeous water - but we don’t drive to it, we just stop at the famous viewpoint for photos. The view is amazing. Myrtos Beach is beautiful, but apparently it's a dangerous beach. Shame because it looks great (and not many of the beaches here are, except for the ones that are only accessible by boat).
Myrtos is on the way to the small town of Assos. Assos sits at the end of a small penisula on the northwest part of the island. The road outside of town starts to get hilly with switchbacks and lots of goats. There are also those tiny roadside kandylakia all over the place too. [Unfortunately I forget to stop and get a picture of any of them throughout the whole trip].
Kandylakia in Greek means little candles. They are small, intricately designed models of Greek Orthodox churches, traditionally made from metal, wood, or wax. Most of the kandylakia are highly detailed, with intricate carvings, and painted icons. Others even have tiny bells that ring when the miniature doors open.
The tradition of making kandylakia dates back to the Byzantine era. Then, portable religious icons were used for private worship. Over time, these icons evolved into miniature churches, crafted by skilled artisans and used as offerings or gifts. Kandylakia are considered a symbol of faith and devotion in the Greek Orthodox tradition. They are often used to commemorate special occasions, such as weddings or baptisms, and are believed to bring blessings and protection to the household where they are displayed
The kandylakia often appear on the parts of the road with a magnificent view. But this breathtaking view often comes with a dangerous road that actually took someone’s breath. Most of the small churches along the roads in Greece are placed by the family members of someone who died in a traffic accident. The small church provides a place to remember the victim, light a candle, and pray.
The kandylakia are also placed by the survivors of accidents to honor the god who protected them. The final reason for a small roadside church is to mark that there is a church or monastery close by.
Since we’re on the Ionian side of Greece, nearer to Italy, the decor and style of more Venetian than Greek.
The idyllic Greek gem is located on a small, horseshoe-shaped peninsula in Northwestern Kefalonia and home to about one hundred inhabitants.
With an air of a bygone age, Assos seduces visitors with lush forests, turquoise waters, colorful homes, and everlasting bougainvillea. It’s ideal for the nature lover in search of slow, non-commercialized travel.
Assos is at the bottom of the hill, surrounding a small horseshow bay. It's tiny, with small, pretty, colorful houses near the water. There's not much there, but a few small cafes, a church, the houses, and a small public rocky beach.
INSERT PHOTOS FROM INSTAGRAM
We drive further northeast to Fiskardo, which is at the northern part of the island. Its small, but with a larger, nice waterfront, and more shop. There’s lots of restaurants along the water, lots of boats in the harbor.
Fiscardo Village is located 49.5 km north of Argostoli, the capital of Kefalonia. Lapped in hills carpeted with cypresses and olive trees, this quaint fishing village is so beautiful that it was added to Project Natura 2000 for its protection. It boasts its own port but also a marina that is considered a boaters’ paradise and is densely packed with yachts in the summertime.
Harbourside, plentiful taverns, bars, and shops are waiting to welcome the visitors.
We stop for a snack at Parnassos, and it's fine. They only have some types of drinks, but it's hard to figure out what. Cher gets a prosecco and grape leaves, and I get a Mythos Radler, which is very refreshing (2% alcohol), and fries which are also really good. Must be the oil they cook stuff in. Cher and Marcella split a hummus dish, and they bring out the smallest plate of dips.
One side note about the beer in Greece - its mostly large corporate beer, with a few small microbreweries here and there. Mythos is owned by Carlsberg Group, which is ginormous. Most of the beers we’ve had are at best fine. But that changes with at the next stop on our day.
After our snacks we go back to the car and drive a few minutes north of town to Parilia Emplisi, a local free beach. It's not large and it's very rocky (larger rocks than at the earlier beach). But there's trees and beautiful rock shelves ringing the small beach.
Paralia Emplisi is a stunning beach located in the northern part of the island. It is well-known for its natural beauty and clear waters, making it a popular spot for swimming and snorkeling. The beach is characterized by its pebbly terrain, which can make setting up an umbrella a challenge in windy conditions. However, the beach also offers natural shade from the surrounding trees.
The beach is often busy, but visitors report that it does not feel overcrowded. Despite its popularity, Paralia Emplisi lacks amenities such as toilets or sunbeds, so visitors are advised to come prepared. There is a small snack bar on the beach for refreshments and waste disposal.
There's a lot of people here but it's not uncomfortable. There's a small food truck with snacks and drinks. The water is great and clear, and there are small fish swimming around. It's great. I get a Kefalonia Beer Red Ale, which was great, and Long Chips Mashed Potato chips, which are like flat, long Pringles (but less flavor).
We hang out for maybe 2 hours and then we drive back. It's a nice leisurely drive back over the different hills.
Everyone heads to their rooms to clean up and rest. Cher and I pack up a little, and then walk to the water to find something to eat. We end up at Van De Rossa for dinner, right along the water. Where we sit initially has the Sun setting right in Cher's eyes.
I get salad with lettuce hearts, olives, onions, lemon vinaigrette and other stuff I ignore. I get a Fix (which I'm starting to get tired of). Cher gets a mojito, honey glazed beans in a pot, and a Greek salad (all of the Greek salads come with a big chunk of feta). Halfway through our salad, Grace and Marcella show up so we move our seats to right along the water. The food is tasty and large portions.
After dinner we walk to Mataxa, which was recommended by the waiter. We order almond cake, which is a Kefalonian specialty, with vanilla ice cream, and loukoumades with chocolate, which are like little zeppoles. The almond cake isn't great - it's sweet but grainy and has chunks of nuts. The loukoumades are great - perfect zeppoles, warm, with melted chocolate. So good.
Grace says “not taking those pancakes is my biggest regret”.
They wander to the market and Cher and I head back. We feed some of the street cats my leftover chicken for dinner.
In bed by 11.
Total Steps: 16,953
Total Miles: 8.35
Overall, Kefalonia was great. Argostoli was cute, not super touristy, but with lots of shops and places to eat, and oleander bushes everywhere. The beaches we went to were great, and the landscape was pretty to drive through, with Kefalonian firs (endemic to the island) and tall, thin, Cypress trees everywhere. The landscape was full of dramatic, white limestone cliffs. The Italian influence on the buildings was unique and a nice surprise from what I expected from Greece.
WEDNESDAY JULY 8
We wake p at 6:00 am to get ready for our ferry ride to Zakynthos. We try to give the hotel dogs the rest of my chicken but they ignored it. The local cat ate it up though.
The cab picks us up at 6:45 in a nice Mercedes van. It's a 15 minute drive to Pasada, where we get the ferry.
The ferry is much larger than I expected, with different levels, and classes of seats. Its a very comfly ride. There's plenty of seats, it's very smooth, and it's a beautiful day.
We get off the ferry, and there's nothing really there. There are only a few taxis, and apparently we should have scheduled it in advance. But there is a larger van taxi waiting, so I go up to the driver and he says he's waiting for 1 person, and he can take us. 90 euros. He also takes one other woman…but it's not the person that originally scheduled.
Ultimately the driver stops at a small market, and there's an Asian man waiting there so he slides in the front with the other woman. Is this the perosn who was supposed to be picked up at the ferry landing? We’ll never know.
Zakynthos,also known as Zante, is a Greek island in the Ionian Sea. It is the third largest of the Ionian Islands, with an area of 405.55 km2 (156.6 sq mi), and a coastline 123 km (76 mi) in length. In Greek mythology, the island was said to be named after Zacynthus, the son of the legendary Arcadian chief Dardanus.
The ride to the town of Tsilivi (also known as Planos) is beautiful. Lots of hills along cliffs, and some beautiful houses on the water and hills. Tons of gnarled olive trees, some fig trees. The town looks busy enough.
Planos (Greek: Πλάνος), also known as Tsilivi (Greek: Τσιλιβή), is a village and a tourist resort on the island of Zakynthos, Greece. It is part of the municipal unit Arkadioi. It is situated on the northeastern coast of the island, about four kilometres northwest of the capital Zakynthos (city). The lively beach resort Tsilivi Beach is part of the community. At the north point of Tsilivi Beach, there exists an old Venetian observatory (called a vardiola (Greek: Βαρδιόλα)).
We are staying at the Tsilivi Beach Hotel, which is right on the water along Tsilivi Beach. There's a large pool too. We can't get our rooms but we can check in. There's an issue with the cost of Marcella and Grace's room (apparently because Jay was originally included so it was for 3 people). Ultimately it works out and the resort gives them the lower price.
Tsilivi is one of the most famous beaches in Zakynthos. It is located on the east coast of the island, approximately 7 kilometres from Zante town. It is mostly sandy with a few parts with small pebbles. There are sunbeds and sun loungers in front of hotels and a few lively beach bars that offer an entertaining atmosphere. There are also parts of the beach that are quiet, where you can lay your towel and just enjoy the sun. Tsilivi beach is continuously awarded with the international Blue Flag award which is only given to beaches that meet strict criteria for cleanliness.
The hotel looks OK - it's a little Sandals-y. It's all inclusive, but they have different places for food that are open at different times. I think we're here at the time of snacks. But its very sparse. Doesn’t stop some of the others from getting some yogurt or something.
The hotel basically goes right up to the water. The beach is small and definitely isn't as nice as the other island. There are some beach chairs you can rent, but it looks a little old. But the water looks great - clear, calm, and and shallow for a long while.
Its a short few minute walk to the main part of town, so we wander while our room is being prepared. It's a beach resort town…nothing gorgeous but lots of small beach town shops and places to eat. A lot of the same types of stuff - burgers, Greek food, pizza of unknown quality.
We bring our stuff up to our sea view room when its ready. Its fine, and there’s a small balcony the looks out right over the small beach and the sea.
Grace joins us for lunch and we walk back into town. She says the food at the hotel isn’t great (I could have predicted that from what little I could see). We pick Menir, which has a nice raised covered deck where we can see bits of the ocean and there's a nice breeze. It looks fine. Cher orders a Cuba Libre, some hummus, olives, and tzatziki, and some cheese dish that never gets delivered. I order a Nikos cocktail (vodka, pineapple juice, and grenadine), grilled sausage, and Zakynthian Chicken…some sort of chicken in tomato sauce and cheese. The drink is great. The food is ok.
Even though we basically walked 10 minutes into town to get to the restaurant, its very close to the beach. So we decided to walk back to the hotel along the beach - most of the way we can walk on the beach, but there’s a few spots where we need to walk in the water itself. We get into our swimsuits, and go down to the water. The beach may be a brown color, but the sand is really nice…soft and fine. The water is warm and very calm. The beach stays shallow for a long time too…it's great.
Cher and I head back into town for desert, and stop at Dèmodè. It has really cool ice cream, waffles, and loukoumades (stuffed with chocolate or plain, with all sorts of toppings). We hold off on the loukoumades this time because they have small sundaes that look so good. Cher gets a Lava Bueno (soft vanilla ice cream, oreo biscuit, and Bueno praline sauce) and I get a Lava Twix (soft vanilla ice cream, biscuit, milk chocolate, and salted caramel). They are like the old McDonald's soft serve ice creams, and are sooo good.
Back at the hotel, we head to the beach to see the sunset. It's bland until blue hour when there are some reds in the distance.
There's a duo playing Greek music in the bar area that overlooks the water , and it's sooo loud. Like insanely loud.
We head back to the room around 10, because I have a work call at 10:30. Then in bed around 11.
Total Steps: 15,559
Total Miles: 7.54
THURSDAY, JULY 9
Up at 6:30 to walk to the Warm & Fresh Demetis bakery for coffee and baked goods for breakfast. It looks great - really large croissants, donuts, and other beige concoctions - but the croissants we get are not fresh baked. The donut is ok. Even the fresh squeezed orange juice is warm and not very good (tho Cher likes it). A big difference between the promise and the actual food.
At 8, we get the hotel van to drive us to Zakynthos Town, where we are picking up our surprise boat tour for Grace’s birthday. We are on the Alegria; our driver is Agapitos , and the hostess is Gladia. She is 20 and reminds us of Katie.
The boat is nice - a 30-ish foot speedboat with a covered seating area and table at the rear, and an area you can lay on the front. There's a small kitchen area, a bedroom, and a toilet.
[description of the boat]
[the Allegra]
We will be travelling north through the Zakynthos Strait between Zakynthos and the mainland, around the northern point of the island. The coast is pretty with lots of resorts and houses along the waterfront. It's a beautiful sunny day and the breeze on the water is perfect.
We stop at and take photos of the Blue caves.
Located over in the northeast portion of the island of Greece, the Blue Caves of Zakynthos are well worth a visit. The beautiful natural formation is made up of a series of curving archways, as well as a succession of caves that lead into a larger inner cave.
It’s easy to see why the caves have been dubbed the “Blue Caves”. The water here is strikingly blue, a sight made even more stunning by the cave walls, which create particular reflections of the water, and turn the famous Blue Caves into a surreal environment.
The colours of the ocean dancing off the walls of the caves are particularly beautiful, but the interesting arches are rock formations are also super cool
Then we head to the famous Shipwreck “Navagio” Beach.
The fact is that the ship named MV Panagiotis (built in 1937) ran aground on October 2, 1980, at 4:30 a.m. On board were nine crew members, two Italians and seven Greeks. All survived the accident.
For years, the official story went like this: The MV Panagiotis was supposed to sail from Kefalonia (Port of Agrostoli) to Albania (Port of Durres). On its final voyage, it encountered stormy weather, and poor visibility hindered navigation. Due to an engine malfunction, the ship became unable to maneuver and ended up on the Caribbean-like Navagio Beach.
The captain then alerted the authorities. However, a few hours later, two boats carrying locals arrived and looted the ship. Twenty-nine Zakynthians were later even charged with theft. The most well-known story, however, was that the MV Panagiotis had been operating as a smuggling vessel for years.
In September 1980, it set sail from Turkey to Italy. On board were cigarettes worth $200,000, intended for the Italian mafia. The Greek coast guard was already on the ship’s trail. In rough seas, it ran aground in Navagio Bay. Numerous cigarettes floated around in the sea.
The crew fled to avoid punishment. The captain turned himself in to the authorities at the time but was never convicted. The contraband was distributed among the people; reportedly, not a single pack of cigarettes was sold on Zakynthos for years afterward. Court documents, photos, and eyewitnesses confirmed this scenario in 2020.
Gladia helps us take some “Instagram” photos. There are some other boats around but it's not overwhelming…we have time to get our photos alone (and since no one is allowed on the beach anymore it looks empty).
They say Zakanthos has the best cliff landscapes, and these are pretty neat. Sheer white side walls of white limestone, colored with oranges and tans and green bushes growing out of the rock.
We stop at a medium sized cove, with calm waters and a few very small beaches, surrounded by 100+ foot cliffs. We swim for a while. The water is so salty you barely have to move to float. Never heard of an ocean (a sea technically) that salty. There are small caves you can swim through.
Back on the boat, we have our prosecco with peach juice (a bellini basically). We tell Gladia about the reason we are here, and the history of the Forever Friends, and she says “you are sisters of the heart”.
Then we move on to the Xigia Pelagaki Beach
Xigia Pelagaki Beach, also known as Little Xigia, is a hidden gem on the northeastern coast of Zakynthos, Greece. This tranquil beach offers a serene escape with its white pebbles, turquoise waters, and natural mineral springs, attracting visitors seeking relaxation and unique therapeutic experience.
It's more open, next to a small, but popular beach. As you get closer you do mildly smell sulfur. The water is warm and there's a small cave you can swim into.
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For snacks, they give us some small ham and cheese sandwiches and fruits. It's fine. Then we head back to Zakynthos Town to deboard. Its been a beautiful day, seeing some amazing places.
[that’s a lot of paper]
On the way out we talk to Agapitos, and set up a sunset cruise for tomorrow afternoon (with Grace only). I call the hotel to get the taxi back and we have to wait for 15 minutes or so but it's not an issue.
Back at the hotel, and then Cher, Grace and I walk up the street to the Burger Bar . I get a Mai Tai, Jack's burger (burger, caramelized onion, Jack Daniel's sauce). Cher gets a passion fruit margaritas, and a Greek salad. It’s all ok. After lunch we go back to the hotel and lounge in the water.
After an hour or so, Cher and I wash up and walk around the rest of the main town. Toward the north end, near the end of the main road, there’s a cute drinks bar called The Forrest Song. It's decorated and even built like a fairytale forest house, with a big hobbit door, whimsical fairies and nymphs, and homemade (?) art. All the menus are handmade with painted pages and all handwritten (with slight differences in drinks and descriptions). It’s a super fun place. And its ia beautiful night as usual. I get a Fairytale: vodka, passion fruit puree, lemon juice, and grenadine. Cher gets a dragonfruit daiquiri. The drinks are great - Cher's favorite so far and mine is up there. Great little find.
We walk back into town to Dèmondè again. Cher gets soft serve with strawberry chocolate and brownies, and a freddo espresso (iced espresso). I get the loukoumades with milk chocolate drizzle and oreos topping. Cher’s soft serve isn’t as good as the first time, but the loukoumades are great.
FRIDAY, JULY 10
No alarm, so we are up around 7 am. We find Papa's Place, near the center of town, for breakfast. They have a pretty full breakfast menu, including “classic Canadian” pancakes with butter and maple syrup!
I get a Full English breakfast (which comes with 2 fried eggs, 2 hash browns, 2 English sausages 2 Greek bacon (ham), bread, and all the other stuff). Cher gets an scrambled eggs on toast (which is plain white bread, which she is fine with) and we share the “Classic Canadian” Pancakes. It's a lot of food and it's not fancy, but it's good. The pancakes themselves are good but the maple syrup could be more maple-y.
There are so many loud cicadas in the trees everywhere we've been so far. Apparently it's a big thing in summer.
The male cicadas sing to attract a mate (a noble cause, sure), but they do so by blasting their song at 120 decibels straight into your brain. If you’re nearby, congratulations: you’re part of the performance, whether you want to be or not.
Back to the hotel to lounge around and swim for a few hours. Then back to the room for some Fun (the cleaning staff tries to come in and opens the door).
We have our sunset cruise at 5 pm, so at 2 pm we get the hotel taxi to Zakanthos Town again. Our driver the same guy is there again - I missed his name. He drops us off at Solomos Square, which is near the port. But we came in early to get some food, and we find ZAZÚ, a small cafe with tapas.
It's a short walk to ZAZÚ, through a small, pedestrian streets neighborhood, which would probably be cool at night when it comes alive more.
ZAZÚ is on one of the corners, and it's a cute little place with maybe 10 tables. I get a Zazu Punch (dark rum, Caribbean pineapple liquor, tamarind cordial, and lime juice), chorizo with tomato salad, and the Patatas Bravas with aioli. Cher gets burrata salad, and spinach philo, and a Porn Star Highball (vanilla vodka, homemade passionfruit, and fruit cream soda). But Cher's it's like deconstructed…the liquor is in a highball glass…with a passionfruit gel cube on top, and a small shot glass with a vanilla gel…it's confusing and not very good.
The food is very good. The chorizo is insane.
After lunch we wander through town. There's a beautiful Greek orthodox church - Saint Dionysios Zakynthos Holy Orthodox Church (Ιερός Ναός Αγίου Διονυσίου Ζακύνθου). Its beautiful inside - dark with colorful stained glass, paintings on every surface, and lots of wood carvings.
The largest and probably the most famous church on the island is located in the capital of Zakynthos. The church of St. Dionysus, the patron saint of Zakynthos, together with the tall white bell tower, forms a beautiful landmark of the harbour. The current appearance of the church dates back to the mid-20th century.
The church was founded by monks at the beginning of the 18th century. They originally lived on a small Greek island in the Strofada archipelago and cared for the body of Saint Dionysus. However, due to pirate raids, they had to leave the place and relocated to the island of Zakynthos, where Saint Dionysos was born, together with the remains of the saint. In the 1850s, a bell tower (kampanario) was added to the temple. However, the earthquake of 1893 had a devastating impact on the building. After 23 years of work, the present church building was completed in 1948 and a few years later was put to the test by a major earthquake (1953). The Church of St. Dionysos was one of the few buildings to withstand the earthquake, which is considered a miracle and a blessing by the locals.
St. Dionysius Church is a beautiful building not only from the outside, but it also has a very interesting interior. The church is richly decorated with frescoes, beautiful paintings, large chandeliers, golden elements, stained glass windows, and a beautiful iconostasis is sure to catch the eye of visitors. Inside the temple, there are also relics of Saint Dionysus placed in a silver coffin, which is the work of Diamantis Bafas. It is said that when the faithful whisper their wishes to the benevolent monk, the coffin opens slightly. Saint Dionysos is also said to be frequently seen alive and walking. Therefore, his slippers are also regularly renewed, for they are trampled and full of sand as he goes about performing miracles.
Pilgrims come here all year round and twice a year processions are held - on 17 December, the anniversary of the saint's death, and on 24 August, when the remains of St Donys were taken to Zakynthos.
While we wait for the boat we stop at Sador, a small gelato cafe across the street. I get a mango sorbet, which is fine.
So 5:00 pm comes, and Agapitos never shows…at 5:30 he calls me back and says we never made a booking. When I spoke to him yesterday on the boat he didn't say anything about having to make a booking. He just said to let him know so I did.
So we cross the street to Chions Tours, which has a 6 pm glass bottom boat tour (25 people) leaving from Porto Koulka at 6 pm. We have to take a car to the port where the boat is, and that's about 15 minutes. 45 euros a person. So we book that.
Cheryl and Grace walk down the street to find towels, and find another place - Dali Tours - that has a private boat for a 3 hour tour with the same stops and the sunset view. It's 220 euros total. The boat is a smaller fishing boat type, but it's got a cover and it's private. So we book that and tell the Chions Tours lady that we aren't going and to refund the 135 euros I just paid. She is very confused by all of this, as is to be expected.
So I sit at the Dali tour place, which gives us water, and we wait for a car transfer to the port where the new boat... And then Agapitos texts and says that he is at the boat and he could take us. But we decide to just stay with this last company since it's already 5:45 (and it's cheaper and we've already paid). The tour company later apologizes, but it was my fault for not following up more.
Anyway, we have a tour on a boat somewhere. Trifanos (Trifi) is our driver, maybe named after Saint Trifanos (?). It's not clear.
We go to the town of Lakanas. There's a lot of young people around. Our captain is Elton (from Albania). His English is difficult, but he is funny and nice.
There’s a small harbor with tons of small boats anchored. We walk a few feet into the water to get to small fishing boat with a few seats. This is a small boat, no amenities, no frills.
As we pull out into the bay, we see a young female turtle right away in the harbor - there are a lot of small boats around. Gotta be a tough life for the wildlife here.
Right near the harbor is a mall private island - one man owns it and there's a wedding being set up (or is happening it's not clear). There's a small rickety bridge that you walk over to get to it so it might be that famous one that we see a lot of photos of.
The ride is nice even for a small boat. Elton manages to keep the boat stable most of the time, and there's a little spray that makes it into the boat but we don’t get too wet. The temperature is perfect, it's not even cool when you get out of the water wet.
At a few points, Elton pushes us to take photos - making hearts with the Sun behind us, kissing, floating from above. He takes one of my driving the boat. It's a bit much but he's pushy. Most of the photos come out looking like crap anyway.
We head past Marathonissi (Turtle Island because it looks like a turtle) and to the area of the famous Keri caves.
The walls of the coast are beautiful, sheer white limestone (up to 300 meters high) lots of caves and arches. The water is beautiful and we swim through one of the caves - a narrow opening in near darkness, which then opens up to a small lane with light illuminating the amazing blue water. Wow.
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Elton yells at one of the other boat drivers because they are going too fast. After passing through the biggest arch, a big glass bottom party boat comes zooming in playing Starship’s “Nothing Gonna Stop Us”.
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Our last stop is a small sandy beach where the loggerhead turtles come to lay their eggs. There are small wooden boxes built around the nesting site, and the entire area is roped off. The eggs are laid in the spring, and hatch in the fall. Elton says about 1% survive, and if they do they come back in 30 years to lay their eggs in the same spot.
Once we get off the boat, we are driven back through Laganas, and there are tons of young people walking along the long main road. This is a very happening vacation spot for young people from Greece and Eastern Europe.
Back in Zakanthos Town you can see it's much more happening at night. Looks like a fun place to spend some time.
We walk down the street to Goody’s Burgers for Grace to get something to eat. It's like a fast casual place. It smells good, but it's late and we don't want to eat anything. Grace tells us the next morning the burger was bad.
We call for the taxi and I have trouble getting the guy to send the car to the port entrance - he keeps saying “same place as drop off” and ultimately it takes a few back and forth phone calls them to find the driver. On the way to find the taxi, we pass through Solomos Square, which is happening, and notice a cool looking church (The Church of Zoodochos Pigi, a Byzantine-era church, originally part of a monastery) on the top of the hill overlooking the town.
Back to the hotel by 10:30 (the town is hopping!), and we finish up our prep for tomorrow's flights. We have a 6:30 a.m. taxi scheduled.
Total Steps: 13,242
Total Miles: 6.28
SATURDAY, JULY 11
I wake up at 5:15, look at the clock, and see 6:15 so I briefly panic before Cher sees the real time. So we lay in bed until 6 and then finish up our packing.
In the taxi with our same driver (who is very punctual!) and it's 15 minutes to the airport. On the way we pass a restaurant advertising “Black wine” which the driver has never heard of.
We are leaving from the Zakynthos Airport "Dionysios Solomos” at 8:20 am on Olympic Air (landing 9:25 am), and are taking a flight from Athens to Milos at 11:50 am (landing at 12:30 pm).
The Zakynthos Airport is small but has a few places to eat (including a Burger King and a Domino's). There's a small cafe so Cher can get coffee and some croissants, which are surprisingly fresh and decent.
We are in seats 1A/1B for the first flight. It's a small plane - 2+2 seats in each row. We board quickly after a short bus ride and we have no issues getting our bags overhead.
We have about 90 minutes to kill in the Athens airport, so we just get some snacks (chocolate muffin for Cher, salted caramel muffin for me, which is actually really good).
The plane to Milos might be the same size…but it feels smaller. We are in seats 10C/D and they check our bags at the gate.
The flight to Milos is 40 minutes. Milos Airport is tiny - one room, a small bathroom. There's only 1 flight really so our bags come off quickly.
Milos is part of the Cyclades chain of Greek Islands.
The Cyclades (/ˈsɪklədiːz/; Greek: Κυκλάδες, romanized: Kykládes, IPA: [ciˈkla.ðes]) are an island group in the Aegean Sea, southeast of mainland Greece and a former administrative prefecture of Greece. They are one of the island groups which constitute the Aegean archipelago. The name (Κυκλάδες νήσοι, Kykládes nísoi, 'encircling islands') refers to the archipelago forming a circle around the sacred island of Delos. The largest island of the Cyclades is Naxos; the most populated, however, is Syros.
Apparently this island is where the Venus de Milo was discovered.
Cher has set up a transfer with the hotel, so there's a guy waiting for us with her name on a sign. It's only about 10 minutes to the Santa Maria Village Spa & Resort.
The drive from the airport shows a sparse, dry, island. A lot of brown ground, some trees and bushes mixed in. Low, square white houses, but with beaches along the road and perfect blue water.
The difference between the Ionian side of the islands and the Aegean side is immediately obvious - here things are white, plain. There they were white, but ornamentation.
We can check in but we need to wait 30 minutes or so for our rooms to be ready. So while everyone waits at the pool, I wait at reception for the guy delivering our ATV.
We have rented a CFMoto C Force L 450cc ATV for the day and a half we're here. It's bright orange and large. It is very easy to operate but we'll see how the ride is.
We sit around the beautiful pool, and get some drinks while we wait…but it's not long. Cher gets a spicy Greek Margherita, and she gets me a Syrma Surf (American Pale Ale) which is tasty.
Reception is going to be an issue here it seems.
There's a big fly eating another bug that's freaking Grace out.
Grace decides to rent an ATV, so she and Marcella come with us to explore the area a little bit. The first stop is Sarakiniko, the famous Moon Beach, which is basically why Cher wanted to come to this island at all.
Sarakiniko (Greek: Σαρακήνικο) is a beach on Milos Island, Greece, situated on the north shore of the island in the Aegean Sea. Waves driven by north winds shape the greyish-white volcanic rock into amazing shapes, and the area is often compared to a moons Cape. The local people often refer to the scenic landscape of Sarakiniko as Lunar. The bone-white beach derives its unusual characteristics from the erosion of the volcanic rock by the wind and waves. Sarakiniko is one of the most photographed landscapes in the Aegean.
It's very surreal. The white rock is hard but also soft and it's just a maze of weird shapes and pillars and caves and the water. It's insane.
There are a lot of people around - some using it as a beach, some just wandering around taking photos - but the area is so spread out that it's not crowded like the Acropolis got, for example. There are also cats around which just seems wrong since it's such a dry barren place.
On the way back to the ATVs, we stop at the one food truck, and get some refreshments. Cher gets an iced chocolate, and I get a chocolate shake. Both perform their desired task well.
We drive a few kilometers east to Alogomandra. It's a small beach with no amenities. There's actually two beaches. The first is a small beach ringing the cove, with a lot of sea grass and not a lot of charm. But if you follow the sign you climb past a small concrete hut that leads to a tiny sand beach, that rings a rock overhang, creating a small, amphitheater cave. The small swimming area is great - warm calm water, clean over hard, but not slippery rock. The walls surrounding the beach and water look like an old school rock wall, with big rocks filled in with mortar. There are a handful of people there, but it's not crowded at all. A great little place to spend some time.
Alogomandra is a very beautiful and unique beach located on the northern coast of Milos, featuring a spectacular natural sea cave that provides cool shade and a dramatic frame for the turquoise water. The shore is composed of fine white sand and small pebbles, and the water is shallow and exceptionally clear, making it a perfect spot for a relaxed and scenic swim. It is an unorganized beach that maintains a very peaceful and low-key atmosphere, as it is relatively hidden from the main tourist paths. The surrounding white volcanic rocks are sculpted into interesting shapes, creating a sense of enclosure and protection from the winds. It is a fantastic destination for photography and for those who enjoy the simple harmony of stone and sea. The light inside the cave and the transparency of the water create an otherworldly and very restorative environment. It is a perfect example of the island's quiet northern charm.
Back to the hotel, and we sit by the pool for a little while before getting cleaned up for dinner.
Candy and Paul are getting ready so the rest of us walk down the walking path to the main street along the water in Adamas. It's only about 10 minutes from the hotel.
I decide that the restaurant is to the right…so we walk a little bit and see a bunch of different restaurants along the water…but not the one we are going to. The beach is like a grass beach with trees along the way, and they all have these cool exposed roots.
So we turn around and Candy and Paul beat us there anyway. We have a 45-60 minute wait for dinner at O! Hamos! Tavern for dinner. Cher gets an Espresso Martini, I get a Seta Mera (“from a small brewery in Orologio in Evia”). The drinks are very tasty. “O! Hamos!!” means Oh, Shame!
While we wait, Candy gets cranky because she asks for a specific drink and the waiter doesn't know what she's talking about. She and Paul think he is being rude (we think he's being jokey but she's not in the mood).
The place is really cute - covered with thatch roof, lights and decorations. There are large vine/trees throughout and overhead. All the chairs have handwritten messages written on them.
Our table cleaner boy is Apostolos…Cher is tipsy and calls him Aristotle. He is a young kid and he gives us a grammar lesson on how you call people names based on whether they are the noun or the object of a sentence. He's very nice. I don’t remember the lesson.
The menus are handmade books, with a long story before the food, all handwritten in different languages.
Service takes forever initially. There's a small kitten that runs around the restaurant, and it jumps on the table next to us and sticks its head in the bread bag and starts eating the bread. So cute.
I get fried meatballs with fries. I get a Craft Smoked ale from Central Greece Brewery (it's weird…very smoky) . Cher gets “Reuithada Pantremeni” (Married Chickpeas) - chickpeas in the pot married with cumin, onion, garlic, curry, pepper, red pepper, frost, tomato, turmeric, topped with tahini and lemon, accompanied with yogurt. The food is really good (and comes out quickly after such a long wait to get in and get service). Paul and Grace get the slow roasted piglet…it's so good. Soft and juicy. Ugh so sad but so good.
There's a thin cat that Cher and Candy feed (it likes the yogurt sauce that comes with lots of the meals). I give it some of my meatballs (which are ok) and also give some to the little kitten.
There are a few dessert options…including a “juicy white chocolate cake”. So we have to try that. It's pretty good - wet.
They bring it out with a candle and a funny birthday hat for Cher to wear. And they bring small bottles of mastika, as a digestive. It's ok - tastes a little sweet. Cher thinks it tastes nutty.
We walk back to the hotel and get ready for bed. It's another beautiful night.
Total Steps: 12,564
Total Miles: 6.09
SUNDAY, JUNE 12
I set the alarm for 7:15 just in case. But we have basically been getting up around 7 naturally anyway. There's breakfast in the reception area and a good sized covered patio area. It's a good continental breakfast, with great fruit, eggs and the normal stuff. The machine cappuccino is good, but the orange juice and the small croissants weren't great.
Cher, Grace and I drive the ATVs about 20 minutes to Pollonia.
The island of Milos has a unique horseshoe-shaped configuration in the Cycladic island group of Greece. Along the outer edge of the horseshoe on the furthest northeast tip of the island, Pollonia enjoys quaint harbour views and a quiet sandy stretch of beach.
Pollonia Milos, located in the Cycladic island group of Greece is a quiet and picturesque Milos fishing village. But, what makes Appolonia Milos extra special, is its proximity to quality food and access to a large sandy stretch of sand.
We stop at the storefront for Kounous Escapes, where we are taking our boat tour. Cher had originally planned a different tour but they canceled on us a few days ago. They direct us where to park our ATVs (a good sized free parking lot nearby), and we walk to the small port area.
There's a small cove with a lot of smaller boats, and a few restaurants along the water. We meet Anna, our captain. We find out she's the only woman captain in the area, which is apparently not surprising in this industry here.
The boat is a Saxdor 200. It's a 20 ft speedboat with 4 seats, and a front area where 2-3 people can lay out. As we get going Anna turns on loud Greek pop music, which really isn't my thing.
We takes a short ride to Kimolos. It's a small island with a lot of churches per capita!
A tiny jewel of an island sparkling in the Aegean sun, Kimolos radiates the best of the Cyclades and extends the warmest of welcomes, filled with authenticity and charm
Nature gave birth to Kimolos in a fit of rage and compensated by endowing it with rich gifts. The volcanic island of Kimolos – Arzantiera, meaning silver, to the Venetians – welcomes you in its own serene way.
Colourful shiny pebbles, limpid waters, grey-white rocks whose shapes tease the imagination, thermal springs streaming onto sandy beaches … everything on Kimolos comes together as a single painting of unique beauty.
Then we swing around the island to Gioupa - a pretty little cove with lots of little houses and boat caves (“syrmata”) with colorful painted doors.
Syrmata are one of the most unique examples of Cycladic architecture. One can find them in the fishing villages and seaside settlements of Milos. Klima hosts the most traditional houses of this kind, but visitors can also admire them at Mandrakia, Firopotamos, Fourkovouni and Areti villages.
Built literally where the waves crash, their use was to protect wooden fishing boats during the extreme winter weather conditions. In the autumn, when the fishing season ended, the fishermen used to drag their boats from the sea by wire into the storage rooms on the ground floor of these buildings, which contained the equipment necessary for their maintenance. That is how the name syrmata was established, which is the Greek word for "wires".
Most of them are two-story houses, while they are actually divided into two different yet united sections. The front part is the apparent one, i.e. the facade. The back part is built in a cave dug into the volcanic rocks. The cave functioned as a storehouse for the various tools of the fishermen - both for fishing and for repairing the boats.
Regarding their coloring, syrmata have whitewashed walls and vividly-colored doors, shutters, stairs and railings. The most common ones are blue, red, green and yellow. Fishermen usually chose the same color their boat had.
Nowadays, very few syrmata retain their original use. Most of them have been converted into holiday homes or tourist accommodation.
There's a rock for in the water that looks like an elephant.
The cliffs here are different - more reds and tans than on the Zakynthos.
Next stop is Prassa, an abandoned loading dock for the old chalk mine. The small syrmata are everywhere. It's a decent beach, not much to see, but we jump in. It's chillier than other water we've been in but not uncomfortable at all.
We cross the water from Kimolos and head to Polyiagos (“many goats”), a small island with some insane cliffs and coves (but the largest uninhabited island in Greece). It's uninhabited by people - there was one couple that lived on it until a few decades ago. But now the only inhabitants are goats, which are adapted to drinking salt water.
We got into a cave (maybe “Sima” - locals call it the Lighthouse Cave). The colors are amazing - purples from potassium, yellows from sulfur. Next is another cave with lots of red. Insane colors.
She pulls into a good sized bay with maybe a dozen boats of different sizes anchored. Water, sandy from the chalk rock, is so white that the water reflects a bright, neon blue. The cliffs are amazing - red from iron streaking in the otherwise white cliffs and bright blue water.
The swim here is great. Very calm water, and perfect cool but not cold temperature. As we swim towards the rocky edge where the water meets the cliff Cher see a bee of some kind stuck in the water - so I put it on Cher's hat and I swim it to a rock.
All around the island are these small random rocks sticking out of the water that look like stalagmites. Insane.
Back on the boat we get some snacks: Mitzithropitakia (philo wrapped cheese pastry), and some type of Greek pizza: pepperoni, onion, and capers, and mixed fruits. They have soft drinks and a few cans of Alva lager, which isn't great (or very cold).
We drive along the rest of that island and then make our way back. She's really moving quick in some of the areas which causes some fun bumps.
The overall trip was nice, but it's not what we expected (or thought when we booked it) because it did not go to the one place Cher really wanted to go - Kleftiko Bay, where there are huge white cliffs and caves. It may have been more miscommunication with these tour operators.
Marcella has been waiting for us so she can go to Medusa for lunch. It's about a 10 minute ride to Mandakia town. It's a reeely small little village on the north side. A few streets only. Lots of cats.
We put our name on the list and while we are waiting we see Candy and Paul who are just leaving the area. There’s a woman who might as well be Tara.
Even though it's busy we get seated pretty quickly, and the view is beautiful. It's small and the tables are right on top of each other. I order a Radler, grilled veggies for an appetizer (the zucchini was good mostly because of the olive oil and balsamic) and the meatballs with fries. Cher orders fava beans (tastes like split pea soup, doesn't come with any pita), zucchini balls (really good), and fried peppers, all appetizers. The meatballs came in a tomato sauce on fries, it was tasty. Cher’s peppers are ginormous.
We check out one of the small waterfront areas before we leave. I have to stop and get gas, but before we get there the ATV shuts off. I call the ATV place, and they walk me through the steps to get it out of gear and get going again.
Next is a short drive to Paliochori Beach. It’s a large beach, with small rocks. The public entrance is next to a beach club. The water is really nice, so we take a quick dip.
Next on our short tour of the island is a drive to Tsigrado Beach. You can only get to the beach by taking 2 ladders down through a small crevice. We don't have time to go all the way down, so we take some pictures like we're going down the ladder but only faking.
We drive to the town of Plaka for the sunset.
Plaka is one of the most picturesque places to visit on the island, with traditional Cycladic architecture. Its narrow alleys are full of whitewashed houses with brightly painted windows and balconies that are decorated with bougainvillea flowers.
It is divided into the Old Town (Venetian Castle) and the New Town. You will discover restaurants, cafes, bars and shops, as well as charming churches and a few museums across them.
From Plaka, one can enjoy a magnificent view of the Gulf of Milos and, with a location like that, it comes as no surprise that the town has become famous for its sunset views.
We tried to go to the famous lookout over the Panagia Thalassitra church, but the GPS took us to a road that ended at a house under construction. There might have been a walking path to get up the more famous lookout point, but it's not clear, so we just stay where we are.
I find a photo spot which is boring, but it's something. Its a pretty sunset.
The ladies wander around the half built house. Some other people wander in and out. As we are getting ready to go, a guy drives up and yells at us for being in a private place.
So we drive back, and Cher's Google maps isn't connecting, so she opens Apple Maps, and it takes us the wrong way, to the wrong place. I had an instinct it was wrong but I ignored it. Who knows where it thought it was taking us, but we basically end up in the middle of the now happening town of Adamantas.
And right before we get there, the ATV gets stuck in gear again. Its now dark, we’re in the wrong place, so I am…frustrated…by this point. So it takes a few minutes to get it moving again (by rolling it forward and getting it out of gear).
Since we are in town, we try to find Watermelon Pie, which is a dessert that's local to the island. We pull into a parking lot, and someone notices that Grace's ATV has a flat tire. So she happens to stop right in front of an ATV rental place, and they help them by patching the tire and inflating it at no cost. They were very nice, so I give them a nice tip.
It turns out that the bakery that's open for the watermelon pie is in the same street as the parking lot! We buy the watermelon pie, and a piece of apple pie. The watermelon pie is interesting..its like a watermelon filling with sesame seeds. It's not worth it. But the apple pie is great.
We drive the ATVs back to the hotel, and try our pies.
In bed at 11 pm.
Total Steps: 6,595
Total Miles: 3.16
MONDAY, JULY 13
No alarms set today, and we wake up around 7. We finish up packing and head to breakfast. The continental breakfast here is pretty good - most of the stuff is pretty fresh, and the fruit is really good - peaches, dark cherries that are perfectly ripe, and watermelon. It turns out that they serve the watermelon pie here too. A cute cat comes to visit and I give her some bacon and eggs.
We have 2 hours to kill before we get our taxi to the ferry dock for our ferry to Santorini, so we chill at the pool.
Our taxi to the dock arrives at 11:10 and it's a short ride to the dock - right past where we had our adventure in town last night. There's a lot of people in the large waiting area to get on the ship. So we stood around for 15 minutes or so. There's one place to sit on a bench, and Paul sits down on it without asking anyone if they want it (including Candy). There's a man there with a small cute dog giving him kisses.
We are on a SeaJet Olympic Champion. It's ginormous - there are a lot of people rushing to get on, but not in a mad panic way. We put our bags on the racks and go up to the 3rd level - which is the club class maybe. We have a 4-seat train style with a table along the window. We are alone, and Candy and Paul are in the pod next to us, alone.
After we sit down, they bring us shots of mastika….and then the waitress is hard to get a hold off for a while. Cher gets a freddo cappuccino with oat milk and I get a Fix, and a sugar donut.
The ride is 2 ½ hours but it doesn't feel that long. It's very comfortable, and we make 2 stops along the way at smaller islands. We pull into Órmos Ammoúdi (Amoudi Bay), Santorini around 2:30 pm, and arrange downstairs in the car level, where it's very warm. There's a lot of cars and buses waiting for people. Controlled chaos.
Santorini is another island in the Cyclades, to the southwest of Milos.
Candy's arranged a transport to the hotel and we find the driver easily. There's a large port area with small shops, and basically sheer rock wall behind them. The main tourist towns of Satorini are at the top of the cliff overlooking the caldera.
Meanwhile, Cher reaches out to the Kounous tour place, and let's them know that we were disappointed with the tour because we thought we were going to the other spots. They gave us the wrong tour. It was a miscommunication, or they screwed up. Either way they give us 100 euros off. It's what it is.
Once we are in the car, we immediately start climbing up the cliff and get high up the mountain on switchbacks.
Santorini, officially Thira or Thera, is a Greek island in the southern Aegean Sea, about 200 km (120 mi) southeast from the mainland. It is the largest island of a small, circular archipelago formed by the Santorini caldera. It is the southernmost member of the Cyclades group of islands, with an area of approximately 73 km2 (28 mi2) and a 2021 census population of 15,480. The municipality of Santorini includes the inhabited islands of Santorini and Therasia, and the uninhabited islands of Nea Kameni, Palaia Kameni, Aspronisi, Anydros, and Christiana. The total land area is 90 km2 (35 mi2). Santorini is part of the Thira regional unit.
Santorini is the most active volcanic centre in the South Aegean Volcanic Arc. The volcanic arc is approximately 500 km (300 mi) long and 20 to 40 km (12 to 25 mi) wide. The region first became volcanically active around 3–4 million years ago, though volcanism on Thera began around 2 million years ago with the extrusion of dacitic lavas from vents around Akrotiri. One of the largest volcanic eruptions in recorded history struck the island about 3,600 years ago, leaving a large water-filled caldera surrounded by deep volcanic ash deposits.
The drive to the Blue Dolphins hotel takes about 30 minutes, and I didn't realize how big the island was. We drive through a fair amount of countryside, with some scattered houses but nothing like what I expected.
As we get closer we climb up a hill and see nicer houses - many of a light tan color too. They are not all pure white.
The Blue Dolphins has cute cliffside rooms nestled on top of each other, and on top and surrounded by other apartments/rooms. We are in a single, which is small, but nice. Marcella and Grace are in the “cave” which has more space (because Jay was gonna be here). Candy and Paul are in the “romantic suite” with a view of the sea. Technically its in Firostefani, a small town east of the Fira.
Firostefani is a tranquil, cliffside village on the Greek island of Santorini, renowned for its breathtaking views and authentic charm. Located just 1 kilometer north of Fira, the island's bustling capital, Firostefani is perched on the western edge of Santorini’s caldera at an elevated position, offering panoramic views of the Aegean Sea, the volcano, and neighboring islands. The village’s name, which translates to "Crown of Fira", reflects its position overlooking Santorini’s stunning caldera and its proximity to Fira.
We check in, plan a catamaran cruise for tomorrow (which gets nixed by Candy and Marcella for the cost), and get cleaned up to walk into the town of Fira.
Firá (Greek: Φηρά, pronounced [fiˈra], official name Φηρά Θήρας - Firá Thíras) is the modern capital of the Greek Aegean island of Santorini (Thera). A traditional settlement, "Firá" derives it's name from an alternative pronunciation of "Thíra", the ancient name of the island itself.
Fira is a city of whitewashed houses built on the edge of the 400 metres (1,312 feet) high caldera on the western edge of the semi-circular island of Thera. The two main museums of interest are the Archaeological Museum of Thera, 30 metres (98 feet) east of the cable car entrance, and the Museum of Prehistoric Thera at the southeast corner of the White Orthodox Cathedral of Ypapanti, built on the site of an earlier church destroyed in the 1956 Amorgos earthquake. The town also hosts a number of churches, including the Cathedral of Ypapanti and the Three Bells of Fira.
Access to Fira is mainly by roads on its eastern side, climbing from its port via the zigzag footpath on foot or on donkeys, or by riding the steep cable car from its lower terminal by the port. The central square of Fira is called Plateia Theotokopoulou, with a bus and taxi station, banks, and pharmacies.
From Fira there is a panoramic view of the 18 kilometres (11 miles) long caldera from southern Cape Akrotiri to northern Cape Ag. Nikolaos, plus the volcanic island Nea Kameni at the center with Thirassia Island. Large cruise ships anchor in the small harbor between Nea Kameni and Fira.
The main tourist areas are like a jigsaw puzzle of buildings on side of both sides of ridge. There are narrow walkways, but not wide enough for cars. There's a narrow walking path with shops, restaurants, and lodging places. We walk towards the town with Marchella and Grace…and find a different catamaran cruise place that's a little cheaper. They negotiate with Candy over text, because Paul is napping.
There's a small grilled corn vendor cart, and we get some, but it's very dry.
We have a sunset dinner scheduled for 8 pm at Five Senses. We walk through Firastefani on the way, and we make a wrong turn, ending up at a small church in Imerovigli that has beautiful bougainvillea. I take photos of Cher, Marcella, and Grace.
We see a few flying dress photoshoots on the walk. We’ll see many more during our stay.
Five Senses has a sick sunset view. I order a Red Donkey from Santorini Brewing. It’s very good. Cher gets a Ojo Dorado (Don Julia Reposado Tequila, Grand Mariner Red Liquer, Agave Syrup & Lime Juice) - which she likes. For dinner, Cher orders a a Soft Goat Cheese, Red Berries, Baby Beetroots, and Mizuna Baby Leaves salad, and the Zucchini and Local Cheese Tart with Smokey Eggplant Puree.
We are seated at a corner table - we originally where going to be at a back table with less of a view, but when we get there they move us up. The original table was supposed to be 80 euros per person, but the table they move us to is 120, but we don’t get charged the higher amount. It’s a perfect place to see the sunset view. There’s a also a great view of Skaros Rock, a flat top rock that you can climb
I am sitting next to a ledge so I put my phone in to video the sunset and it falls off the ledge at the end. But it doesnt fall far.
VIDEO
The food is great. The bread is great…a white loaf and a dark loaf…my chicken comes in little rolls like sushi looking shape. I also try a Yellow Donkey (Pale Ale) from the Santorini Brewing which is also good.
While we’re eating, “Freed from Desire” (a Sagi Rei cover of that Spain song) plays.
For dessert, I have Vanilla Crème Brûlée, Raspberry Sorbet, and fresh red fruits. Cher gets ice cream. I order a Domaine Sigalas, Apiliotis (a red dessert wine from Santorini). It's sweet, and also tart, and not bad.
After we pay, they bring us small sweets - chocolate mousse, and little raspberry fruit chews - very tasty. We are all tired but when in Santorini!!
We walk back to the hotel through the narrow walkways. The towns look beautiful all lit up (with a lot of bright blue lit up pools). It's a beautiful night of course.
Back to the hotel at 11, and in bed at 11:15.
Total Steps: 10,842
Total Miles: 5.47
TUESDAY, JULY 14
Santorini is formed by the calderra.
The Santorini caldera is a large, mostly submerged volcanic caldera located in the southern Aegean Sea, 120 kilometers north of Crete in Greece. Visible above water is the circular Santorini island group, consisting of the main island of Santorini (known as Thera in antiquity), Therasia and Aspronisi at the periphery, and the Kameni islands at the center. It has been designated one of the world's sixteen Decade Volcanoes
The caldera measures about 12 by 7 km (7.5 by 4.3 mi), with 300 m-high (980 ft) steep cliffs on three sides, and a maximum depth of 385 m (1,263 ft). Two small volcanic islands, Nea ("New") Kameni and Palea ("Old") Kameni, are located near the center of the caldera.
We wake up around 7, get cleaned up, and wander the town briefly before they bring us breakfast at 8:30.
Since there's no restaurant here, they make a little tray of food and bring it to your room. Today's has 2 sunny side up fried eggs, a bowl of fruit (peaches and pears), some sour dough breads, some pastries (a spinach thing, small pastries filled with apple pie (which is tasty)) and some marble pound cake, and yogurt. It's fine and we sit on the shared terrace and eat overlooking the town and the volcano.
We've been drinking a lot of Amita (unfortunately a Coca-Cola company) juices - the peach has been our prosecco mixer, and the apricot, apple, and orange juice mix has been my favorite.
A car picks us up at 9:30 for the trip to the port. Its playing annoying loud music of course. We drive down the hill through the main part of Fira, which has a lot of shops and restaurants.
Then we pass through the village of Megalochoro, and a bunch of wineries (where we'll be going tomorrow). We see some grape bushes, some donkeys. The port area is under construction and there are a ton of boats of all sizes (but not large yachts).
We are taking a Santorini Star cruise around the island, and stopping at the volcano island. Jon is the captain, Vagos is the sailor (helper), Katarina is the main hostess, and Ella is a second hostess (it's her first day).
The boat is a decent sized catamaran. It has two rooms in the back, two bathrooms, and plenty of seating. The front has two seating nets, a large couch and table, and two beanbag lounge chairs. It's very comfy.
We leave from the southern part of the island, and head east toward the village of Akrotiri on the south side of the island.
Our first stop is Red Beach. It’s a tall cliff wall with deep red iron. There’s a long beach with red sand and some umbrellas, and lots of people. It’s not that spectacular from afar. Around the corner is White Beach. It’s all limestone, and there’s no access from the road. These are pretty areas, but nothing breathtaking.
We stop for a swim near the tip of the island near the lighthouse. There’s a tiny stone landing with steep steps leading up to the view point. We swim briefly, and there are these pretty blue and Grey fishes (video) swimming with us.
We continue on to the Black Mountain, which are large lava stone cliffs and rock formations, more stark than the other parts of the island we've seen.
We head across sound towards the volcano island…in the distance we see the main island, and the houses on the top of the hills look like snow capped peaks from a distance.
There are two volcano islands. The smaller one last erupted 2000 years ago, and it has an old church and house on it. Legend is it was someone living alone hiding from the mafia. The larger one (“new kameni”) is still active, and last erupted 600 years ago.
The “hot springs” swimming area is right in front of the church and house. There is allegedly a lot of sulfur in the water, and has diamonds in it.
The water is probably colder than other places, but with warm spots. It tastes a little gross but there's no sulfur smell - its not as strong as we expected. They warned us that the sulfur could discolor your clothes and jewelry, but it doesn’t seem to be an issue.
We move to another island, Thirasia. There are only 300 people residing here, but no cars. They have a 400-step switchback path that goes up to the top where the houses are.
We anchor and they serve us our food. Shrimp, chicken, sausage, pasta, salad, bread. It's good for a cruise like this. After lunch we dip in the water briefly, but then we have to start back.
The ride back is calm and peaceful, and takes about an hour. We tip the staff and get off the boat for the waiting bus back to the hotel. Overall it was a beautiful trip .
Getting out of the port is a bit of a challenge…lots of cars and buses. The landscape outside of the towns is kinda fugly. Dry, brown, empty but messy too in spots.
We’re back at the hotel around 3:30, so we clean up and walk to the rest of Fira. Cher's flip flops aren't great for the smoothed cobblestone streets, so we take our time. The path is the same corridor leading south, and it opens up in a series of small streets with lots of shops. There's a fair amount of people but it's not ridiculous. There's a a McDonald's and a Sephora. We wander around looking for a snack.
We end up Pelican Kipos cafe and wine restaurant. It's very pretty with lots of trees and flowers around, so it's nice and shady. There's a cute little succulent on our table. On the walk back to the busy part of town, we stop at a great small art shop called Onion Art Gallery. They have a lot of great stuff and we buy a small Sun and Moon statue in red [PHOTO]. It looks like a couple.
We head further in and get ice cream at Kayak. Cher gets tiramisu and Dubai Chocolate. I get salted caramel and cookies and cream. We enjoyed the treat.
The rest of the group is going to watch a world cup game, so we head back to the hotel and get to bed.
Total Steps: 16,457
Total Miles: 7.78
WEDNESDAY, JULY 15
We set our alarm for 7:15 just in case. We have an 8 am car to take us to Oia so we can see the famous sites before the crowds come.
Oia or Ia (Greek: Οία, romanized: Oía, pronounced [ˈia] is a small village in the South Aegean on the islands of Thira (Santorini) and Therasia, in the Cyclades, Greece.
Oia is the most visited village in Santorini and the second largest after Fira, the island's capital town .Oia lies in the northern part of the caldera, 12 km away from Fira. The village is situated above an impressive cliff overlooking the volcano and the island of Thirasia .The settlement dates back several centuries; it was likely built in the 15th century and is still home to the ruins of a Venetian castle.
The hotel has a van and it takes us to Oia at 8 am, a drive of about 15 minutes. Oia is a similar type of look to Fira, but smaller. There are already about 15 people in line for the famous 3 domes lookout photo, so we skip it and wander to the end of the town where the windmills are. It's pretty quiet on the way down, but by 9 am the small area where these views are is starting to get busy with tours from the cruise ships.
There's a second, less iconic viewpoint of a blue dome church. Not sure which one actually. Its all pretty so it doesn’t really matter.
There's a small souvenir shop with lots of cute ceramics, so we get two Greek eye mugs [PHOTO] and one hanging heart thing with an Evil Eye on it [PHOTO].
The evil eye, known in Greece as the mati (μάτι, meaning “eye”), is one of the most enduring symbols in Greek culture. It represents the idea that envy or ill will directed at someone can cause them harm, often through bad luck, illness, or misfortune
We stop at Thalami for breakfast, with a beautiful view, and a nice breeze. Cher gets an almond cappuccino, orange juice, and the Greek “Strapatsada” (with eggs, tomatoes, feta cheese, and olive oil). I get orange juice and regular scrambled eggs. The orange juice is probably the best we've had yet…fresh and with lots of ice. The food is great too. Best breakfast I've had in a while. My eggs were almost sweet, the bacon was about as crispy as it gets here, and the bread in the bread bowl for 2 (which had a ton of stuff) was light with a good crust. Yum.
We walk through the rest of the main road here, and there's less people on the other end. This area is nicer and better maintained than Fira, though with less little alleys and buildings.
We take some photos, get some cold sweet drinks (Le Coq Blue Lagoon alcoholic cocktail for me, OKF Watermelon Kiwi sparkling water for Cher). Both are sweet and I like them more than she does.
Our driver is waiting for us at 11:30 at the Hungry Donkey restaurant…and the others in the group are getting off to walk the town as we’re ready to leave.
Back at the hotel by noon to drop some stuff off, and organize a little.
At 1:30 we take the car to Venetsanos Winery for our tasting/lunch. It's a neat place - it's 4 levels that were built in the 1940s to take advantage of gravity, so all the floors slope downhill. Because it's very windy out (gusts especially) we have to sit inside, which is fine because it's a big long room with really high arched ceilings. But we are the only people here so all the other staff are just sitting there watching us. Our helper is a guy who's name I didn't catch. Everyone whispers.
They bring us a plate of fava, some bread sticks and crackers (that are like large croutons), a plate of 3 cheeses (one of which is really bad and close to the Norway foot cheese), 3 different pork sausages (a pepperoni type which is ok…very peppery from Santorini, a really good one that tasted like turkey from Crete, and a roast beef like one from Mykonos which is ok), and tomato fritters. The food is very nice for a tasting like this. The wines are a white Santorini (Cher likes it for a white, not very dry), a rose Anagalis (very good for a rose, more red than pink), a red Mandilaria (good), and a dessert wine (Vistanto) which Cher loves, I think it's ok. The white and the dessert wine come largely from Assyrtiko grapes, which are indigenous to Santorini. The reds are from grapes grown here but not native. Our server says that 2021 was the last great vintage and since then production is down (40 or 60% I think he said).
We wrap some of the meats in the napkins and bring them home to feed any cats we see.
After heading back to the hotel, we walk about 15 minutes to the Santorini Cable Car. Down one of the alleys we see a stray dog who's pretty thin so we give it most of the meat.
The ride down is 10 euros each, and takes 3 minutes. It's pretty steep but not bad. We turn right back and head back up, for another 10 euros each.
We walk back to the hotel to get my ATV for tomorrow morning's sunrise photo excursion. It's only got ¼ tank of gas, which is annoying, so I find a gas station only a few minutes away and fill it up.
At 6:45 we go to Marcella and Grace’s patio for prosecco (with peach) before dinner. They stole a Fix Hellas from the boat, so I drink that.
The Greek lager beer with the longest history and the richest heritage, since 1864, inextricably linked to stable timeless values and recognized internationally with 38 gold medals and awards. FIX Hellas is an ideal choice for every moment of the day and every occasion, with its soft and full taste, with its refined, floral bouquet of aromas dominated by the aroma of malt and with balanced bitterness, leaving a rounded aftertaste of long duration. Bearing the Greek stamp intact and with a course that exceeds 150 years of branded presence, FIX Hellas combines the high quality and reliability of a historical brand, being one of the first choices of consumers, not only in Greece but also in many countries abroad, to which it is exported.
Candy and Paul have gone to town early, so we walk later to Naoussa, a traditional Greek restaurant where they break plates throughout the meal. It's on the south side of the town overlooking the volcano. We technically have reservations but it doesn't really matter, and we have to wait 15 minutes or so. It's very busy here and there's loud Greek music playing which is annoying.
We get seated around 8:15, and the sun is setting. It's a nice view but there's a lot of tables so it's hard to see. It's insane with the old Greek owners (?) yelling and throwing plates randomly. They don't clean them up either.
Cher orders a spring green salad (tomatoes, carrots, cucumber, cabbage, and lettuce), a potato salad, and stuffed vine leaves. I get spaghetti with tomato sauce (which actually looks decent) and order a Fix but they bring me an Alfa which is terrible. The food is fine - Cher's potato salad was probably the highlight for her.
The sunset is amazing…the reds and maroons last forever…And there's a thin waxing crescent rising right over the volcano. Gorgeous. I had no idea so I didn’t think about bringing my camera.
We wander back to the hotel, and stop to get some gelato even though we don't really want it. I get strawberry and mango sorbet (better eaten together) and Cher gets hazelnut which is really strong.
In bed by 11 pm.
Total Steps: 17,560
Total Miles: 8.41
WEDNESDAY, JULY 16
I set my alarm for 5:30 because I want to do an early morning photo walk. I think I've found a blue dome church that might be ok for sunrise at 6:15. And…I ignore the alarm and sleep in. So we get up around 7 to finish packing. Breakfast is 8:30 and it's the same stuff as the other day but with scrambled eggs instead of fried eggs.
After breakfast, we walk up to Imerovigli briefly to kill some time before I return the rental ATV keys at 10. We check out at 11, leave our bags at reception, and wander into town to get a drink before we leave at 11:45 on a van to the port.
To Briki for coffee to kill some time. It sits right on the side of the cliff, so it's a pretty view. I have a BFresh Sour Cherry drink with Bitter Almond, and Cher has a Green Apple and Bergemot. The Sour Cherry reminds us of black cherry Jello.
There's an Italian man here with the big Baba fake teeth. I notice that we haven't seen any Baba plant here or in Milos. Maybe it's too dry on the Aegean side (apparently it doesn't do well anywhere, there is frost so maybe it gets too chilly here in the winter).
Our regular hotel driver (Mario) drives us to the port. He makes a joke about leaving me behind.
We have an hour so we sit at one of the restaurants and cafes along the port - there's most seating at Chillbox, which is a chain that has Greek yogurt, ice creams, and other frosty treats. I get a scoop of caramel macchiato and a scoop of cookies and cream. Cher gets natural unsweetened Greek yogurt and tops it with fudge and oreo crumbles. We’re very happy with them - tasty and refreshing.
My final thoughts of Santorini: A beautiful place, with great walking areas, great views. There were crowds, but it wasnt overwhelming. And there were lots of women with sunburn, in white and blue dresses.
We get in line for the ferry, and boarding is an hectic as usual. We are in seats 24F and 23F, which are behind one another on the window, and there are two couples next to us, so we get up and find other seats. There's plenty open.
The ride is about 2:30, and we dock in Mykonos around 4. Marcella has a friend or something that is going to help us get around, but the guy who picks us up is not that guy. Candy sees some Contiki people on the ferry.
The port area is good size with some small clusters of houses on the cliffs. We drive along the water past a number of docks, and towards the Little Venice section of Mykonos Town.
Mykonos is known as the ‘windy island’ thanks to the Cycladic winds which whistle through the island all throughout the year. As such, one of the most famous landmarks that the Greek island has to offer are the Mykonos windmills.
The Meltemi winds are strong, dry winds that appear all over the Aegean Sea during the summer months. They typically blow from the north, north west or north east, and can affect swimming, sailing cruises, and even ferry trips.
Believe it or not, the meltemi wind is connected to the Indian monsoons and the Azores anticyclone. It can also be affected by rainfall in Central Europe and the Balkans.
These weather conditions cause differences in the pressure of the atmosphere above the Aegean, resulting in strong winds over the Aegean.
Channeling of the wind between the islands causes its speed to increase further. Since there are so many islands in the Aegean Sea, the meltemi can be exceptionally strong!
In Greek, those seasonal winds are known as meltemi or meltemia. Ancient Greeks used the word etesian winds, which indicated a seasonal wind appearing every year
The ride to town takes about 10 minutes.
Mykonos (/ˈmɪkənɒs, -noʊs/,[2][3] UK also /ˈmiːk-/;[4] Greek: Μύκονος [ˈmikonos]) is a Greek island, part of the Cyclades, lying between Tinos, Syros, Paros and Naxos. The island has an area of 85.5 square kilometres (33.0 sq mi) and rises to an elevation of 341 metres (1,119 feet) at its highest point. At the 2021 census, there were 10,704 inhabitants, most of whom lived in the largest town, Mykonos, which is on the west coast. The town is also known as Chora (i.e. 'Town' in Greek, following the common practice in Greece when the name of the island itself is the same as the name of the principal town).
Mykonos town is widely regarded to be one of the most beautiful towns in Greece and is characterised by its cobbled lanes, many small chapels and churches, and masses of bougainvillea in the late spring and early summer months.
Nondas is the hotel manager who meets us at the drop off point. We can't drive directly to the hotel because the Mykonos Town Suites is in a pedestrian only area. We walk through narrow streets with large stone blocks overlaid with white paint outlines. The houses are all white (apparently it's a Cyclades rule) but the accents are all different colors, some blue, a lot of red and maroon. There are still lots of small churches with lots of red doors this time.
The hotel is like a small set of buildings with different rooms adjoining a small central area with a small “garden”. Nondas says it's one of the 3 remaining gardens in Mykonos. I don't believe him. The houses are cute…simple but fine. Not the highest end place. There's a small outdoor patio (which is shared among some rooms).
The hotel is a few alleys away from the more central part of Mykonos Town. And maybe 5 minutes from the waters edge and the famous windmills. It's a very small area with some high end shops. There are young people dressed up everywhere.
We are hungry so we stop at the Ristorante Casa Di Giorgio. Cher gets a Don Pablo (Cazadores Tequila, Disaronno, Lime, Vanilla Syrup, Grapefruit Soda). I get a Double Passion (Grey Goose Vodka, Strawbar Strawberry Liqueur, Passion Fruit Puree, Strawberry Puree, Lime). The drinks are very good, and the ladies get a little buzz. We order a basic Margherita pizza, which is basically a normal cheese pizza from home. It's thin and it's ok. I also get mozzarella sticks which are right from the box.
We walk back to the hotel…there are so many cats, but they look healthy. We get ready for dinner and walk back to our meet up point, and the driver pulls right up. His name is Pitos (?) and he's gonna be our driver for the few days.
We are having dinner at Scorpio’s. Its one of the famous beach clubs/restaurants in Mykonos. Our reservations are at 9, but we go earlier to get a drink for sunset. A lot of the roads are lined with stone walls. The landscape is rockier than the other islands we've seen.
As we get closer, there's a line of cars to just get in to drop people off. We walk up to the reservation entrance…and they turn us away because we are not dressed well enough. Candy is in a flowing dress and they say it's beachwear, and they look at my and Paul's outfits, which are sneakers (even though they let other folks in right after me who are wearing basically the same thing). Such is the impact of getting old. We feel bad for Candy since this was a place they wanted to go, and she’s not having the greatest trip anyway. But secretly I’m happy that we aren’t going to an expensive, trendy place.
Nondos (and Marcella's friend) suggest we go to Taverna Niko’s near the windmills. We get driven back to town (each ride is 60 euros!), and walk through a lot of little side alleys to find the place. It's a big open area with a ton of tables, on multiple levels. We get a seat right away even if it's a little cramped. The sign says “since 1976” so it's a sign for Grace’s birthday.
Most of the servers are old Greek men, and the menu has a ton of stuff, including more spaghetti. The drinks don't look great so we just get coke zero and Fanta. I order the meatballs appetizer, Cher orders arugula salad, and spaghetti with “red pesto”. It just tastes like weak tomato sauce. The food is ok but it's a great place to people watch. The outfits on some people are insane.
It's a shame the city is so focused on the Scene and the partying because it could be a really cool place…the little alleys are amazing like the Gothic Quarter in Barcelona, but there's so much noise and Scene People it's horrible.
In bed at 11:30.
Total Steps: 11,206
Total Miles: 5.37
FRIDAY, JULY 17
Up at 7:00, we walk down to the Little Venice area, right along the water. It's quiet in the alleyways aside from shop keepers cleaning up, trash collectors (they have these little small trash pick up trucks that are so cute), and other non-tourists. It's much nicer.
We stop at Pelican, which sits along the water. It's a nice place but since it's breezy they close the outside windows so they view isn't as nice. Cher orders her double cappuccino, an orange juice, and Avocado toast. I get an apple-juice which just tastes like watered down orange juice. They are fresh though. I order French toast. The food looks pretty but isn’t our favorite.
We wander back to the room to have some Fun and get ready for the beach.
We meet the driver at the same spot, and drive about 15 minutes to Principote beach club. The club covers the majority of the Panormos Beach.
Panormos Beach is one of Mykonos’ most appealing coastal destinations, known for its wide sandy shore, welcoming waters, and easygoing atmosphere. Located on the northern side of the island, Panormos offers a more relaxed beach experience while still providing quality amenities and a scenic backdrop that draws visitors who want a blend of comfort and natural beauty.
The beach is spacious, with soft sand that slopes gently into the clear blue Aegean Sea. Panormos attracts families, couples, and travelers of all types due to its balanced mix of tranquility and beachside convenience. The shoreline extends in a long curve, giving visitors plenty of room to spread out, find a comfortable spot, and enjoy a leisurely day by the water.
We have reservations for 11:30, it's large, and really pretty at the entrance and reception. It's 120 euros just for the 2 seats/umbrella, and cocktails start at 30 euros. The umbrellas are string and let a lot of sun in…Plus the sun is moving to the west and the beach faces south, so at least one of the umbrellas will be useless soon. By noon most of the seats around us are filled.
We get drinks - I get a RiNo of Chios Pale Ale (I cannot find any info about it. It's not great, but it's got a fun label). Cher gets a Passion Delight (Belvidere Pure Vodka infused with vanilla, caramel flavoured vodka, fresh passion fruit and puree, fresh lime juice). There's a lot of ice for a 30 euro drink.
We lounge for a while and then go in the water. It's very nice, very comfortable once you go in. There's a small amount of rocks to get in but once you get in it's sandy.
We dry off and walk outside the club to Taverna Pelao, which overlooks the beach. Marcella and Grace said it was the best food they've had in Greece.
Cher orders a green salad, and the grape leaves. I order the fries and beef chunks in tomato sauce with pappardelle. The food is very good. We get orange cake (tasty but very wet) and the baklava (Cher says its OK). They also give us small ice cream bars which are ok.
We lounge around until 5, and while we’re lounging around, Cher takes photos of the hot guys for Jay. Cher and I take a taxi back to the hotel. It's 50 euros. Expensive day.
Our driver is very nice and chatty but not in an annoying way. Close to town he makes a left turn at an intersection, through some crazy traffic, and a guy on a scooter touches the side of the car. They yell at each other for a minute before we drive on.
He drops us off at the free parking lot, and it's a 10 minute walk through the town to the hotel. Like Santorini, there are no cars in the old part of town (except for the little truck carts).
We get cleaned up, and Cher pre-packs a little. I head over to the famous windmills to prepare for sunset and a timelapse, if possible. It is not possible, but Cher gets some great photos.
After sunset, we wander around to find a snack - lalala. I get regular pizza and strawn daiquiri, Cher gets a greek pizza (cheese, tomatoes, olives, feta, peppers) and a strawberry mojito. The drinks are great. The pizza might be frozen pizzas but they hit the spot anyway. Cher gets an Espresso Martini for dessert.
We walk back to the windmills, and there's a nice view of the crescent moon and Venus.
Total Steps: 10,948
Total Miles: 5.20
SATURDAY, JULY 18
Wake up around 7. We chill out until 8:30 when we meet Grace for the walk to the free parking to pick up the car to the boat Cher booked for today.
We stop at Bake and Cake on the way. It's a very nice place - lots of good looking pastries and treats.
There's a car waiting at the free parking lot, but he doesn't speak great English so it's not clear if he's waiting for us. We take him anyway and he drives us to Ornos Beach, on the north side of the island.
Ornos in Mykonos is situated in front of a small fishing village, 3.5 km south of the Main Town (Chora). It boasts fine sand, azure waters, and sunbeds and umbrellas for rent. The beach is really beautiful but often gets overcrowded. The view from the beach is lovely, facing houses perched precariously on the cliff.
We are meeting Emilia (Emily) from Mykonian Spirit Cruises, a small family business. Andreas is the captain, and her dad. We are on an old Greek fishing boat - it's got a small back seating area, a seating area/table below, and a bathroom. It's cute. They took an old fishing boat, and completely rebuilt it - you'd never have guessed…it was so well done.
Embark on a private cruise around Mykonos and experience the island from a fresh perspective — from its world famous beaches to peaceful hidden coves. Swim in crystal-clear waters, indulge in authentic Greek flavors and enjoy unlimited drinks as you soak in the sun, the breeze and the magic of the Aegean Sea. Weather permitting, explore the nearby uninhabited islands of Delos and Rhenia for an even more exclusive adventure. This is more than a cruise — it’s your own Greek summer escape.
The Boat: A Piece of Mykonian History
Built in 1973 on the island of Patmos, our boat holds a special place in Mykonos’ maritime story. It was one of the island’s very first tender boats, originally used to transfer people and goods from larger ships to shore. In the early days of cruising, it even served the first cruise ships to arrive in Mykonos. Later, it enjoyed a quieter life as a traditional fishing boat — until 2022, when it was lovingly restored by hand and transformed into a unique excursion vessel, combining heritage with comfort. Today, the boat is fully equipped for a relaxed and stylish cruise. It features a spacious sunbathing deck, a shaded area with awning, a spacious indoor dining room, and a restroom for your convenience. You’ll also find a sound system with Bluetooth, WiFi onboard, and a tender boat available upon request — everything you need for a smooth and memorable day at sea.
They give us a welcome drink - mastika with lemonade, which is nice.
The beach area here has a lot of boats parked there, including a bunch of nice yachts. The south side of the island is less windy (tho it's still windy today).
The ride is very pretty…there are nice houses and beaches we pass. We ride about 20 minutes and stop at Elia Beach. It's a large beach, with different areas. There's a family area, a gay area, a really gay area, and a nude beach. Emily says you see people having sex sometimes. There's a few old nude guys around. Cher and Grace giggle like 12 year olds. It's a weird place to stop for a swim, but the water is nice. Cool but comfortable like most of the other places.
Emily makes a nice fruit platter with watermelon, honeydew (?), grapes, cherries, pears, and bananas, and a ice little snack platter…greek salad, Greek salad, cheese pies, spinach pies, some stinky Mikonos cheese on toast, olives, hummus.
We start to head back to Ornos, and we pass a bunch of famous beaches and clubs - Super Paradise, cavo Paradiso. A lot of clubs, beach umbrellas, and boats.
We make our final swimming stop of the day at Psarrou beach. It's a large beach with a bunch of boats. There's a bunch of Melanouri fish (blue by boat, go pro video)
Melanouri
Greek Name: Μελανούρι (Meh – lah – NOO – ree)
Scientific Name: Oblada melanura
English Name: Saddled sea bream
A flat, grey fish best distinguished by the single, black dot situated between its body and tail, melanouri can typically be found in eastern Atlantic and Mediterranean waters. An omnivorous fish, it loves to feed on small invertebrates in addition to plant life. Often in shallow waters and close to shore.
Because they are a local company they only use local sodas which is nice. Vicos cola, and Epsa orangeade. At end they have small trinkets for us…magnets, Keychains, etc. It's a nice touch.
They drop us off right on the beach and there are a lot of beach places and restaurants, most of which are playing loud club music. So we stop at Farina, an Italia Cucina. It's playing classic Italian music, and it's much quieter. I get “The Downfall” drink (rum, pineapple, and peach). Cher gets a Mango Colada. We all share a Margherita pizza. It's ok. They give us shots of Limoncello at the end.
We get the driver back to town, and we pass a beach with a ton of wind surfers.
Back to the hotel to get cleaned up and wander around one more time. We find some alleys we hadn't seen before, and get one final gelato at Snow Gelato. It's the best gelato of the trip (in my opinion at least). Cher gets dark chocolate and greek cheesecake. I get chocolate and butterscotch caramel (so good). There's a super cute orange and white cat sleeping on the bench next to where we sit.
At 6:00 pm, the ladies finish off their final bottle of prosecco outside rooms.
At 6:30 walk to 180° Sunset Bar. It takes about 20 minutes, but ost of it is uphill, so Paul is not happy.
We have 7 pm reservations. It's a big place overlooking the town and the water. It's gorgeous. But the sun is beating down on us and I didn't think to put sunscreen.
Cher orders a “Gratitude” - Jameson Original Irish Whiskey, Hazelnut, and Sundried wine. It's very strong. I order a Craft Lager. It's ok. For food I order the Hot Dog (Black Angus sausage, Pickled Cabbage, White bbq sauce, Crispy onion). It's ok - too much cabbage. But the Corn Ribs
(Chimichurri, Smoked bbq sauce) are reaaaally good. Cher orders Cauliflower Wings, and French Fries. Both are ok.
We order one of each dessert for the table: Pavlova (White chocolate namelaka, Strawberry sauce, Crispy Meringue, Fresh berries), Profiterole (Choux with vanilla cream, Pistachio Praline, Dark chocolate, Almond), and an Apple Tart (Caramel sauce, Vanilla ice cream). They put Grace's birthday candles on this one.
The sunset is pretty, and the moon and Venus set over the town. The DJ perfectly times playing the famous Andrea Bocelli (?) song so that it ends just when the Sun disappears. Cher likes it. I think it's cheesy. One more beautiful night in Greece.
The others decide to hang there and dance to the extremely loud DJ, and we walk back to the room. Because the bar is on the side of the hill overlooking the town, we can hear the music long after we leave the bar.
We basically finish our packing and we get to bed at 10:30.
Total Miles: 10,161
Total Steps: 4.78
SUNDAY, JULY 19
We set the alarm for 5:45 so we can meet the driver at 6:30 am. We have an 8:05 flight to Athens. Nandas has set up a taxi for us (prepaid) and it's a short 5 minute ride to the Mykonos-Manto Mavrogenous Airport. Our driver gives us an explanation of why Mykonos is so windy as we get out.
We are already checked into the Aegean Airlines flight A3373 to Athens, so we go right to security. We pass through quickly with no issues, and have about an hour to wait before boarding.
They initial suggest that they want to check out bags but we explain that we have a connection after, and they let us bring them on.
Flight A3373 is on an Airbus A320neo. We have no issues finding space for our bags, and we are in exit row seats 11C and 11D (aisles). It's a short 45 minute flight to Athens, and we're off the plane by 9:30.
A short walk to the A terminal, where we go through border control and security. They open up my luggage to check my tripod and my photo junk bags (which has my multi tool in it). It didn't take that long and we have about 75 minutes before we board the next flight to Montréal.
Because we are first class we can use the Aegean Airlines lounge, which is pretty nice and not overcrowded. We get some snacks, which are decent too.
The gate is busy with lots of people. At 11:15, we board Air Canada AC 899, a Boeing 777-300ER, in seats 3K and 4K (window seats). Cher gets a sparkling wine, and the vegetarian meal (a veggie moussaka I think), and I get chicken thighs.
The seats are the same as the way over, a little old in the tooth, but still nice. They have massage settings too!
We don't leave the gate for about 30 minutes. I notice how many doors and cabins are opened and closed during the pre-flight process.
The pre-flight safety video shows the standard things (oxygen masks, life vests) in stereotypical Canadian settings (a fisherman). Putting these videos in non-airplane settings seems to be a trend?
I get a weird “Greek emergency alert” on my phone as we're taxiing to the runway. It's all in Greek so I have no idea what it meant.
We ultimately get airborne at 12:30 pm. The food is chicken thighs for me, with grape leaves, salad and fruit. Cher has ____. I give her my grape leaves. The food isn't great. Before landing they give me roasted chicken and fruit which is better, and ____ for Cher.
We land at 2:50 pm (about 9 ½ hours total). We are early so we have to wait a few extra minutes to get off the plane. As Cher is leaving, the woman in front of her just stops to chat with the attendant for some reason.
We walk to the connections area, and have to show our boarding pass 5 times in like 100 feet. Insane. But we get through security and border control pretty smoothly.
We have 4 hours before we even board the last flight, so we go to the Air Canada Maple Leaf Lounge. It's terrible really. Very little food, not a lot of seats (and we're here while the World Cup final is playing so all the outside restaurants are packed too.
We find an earlier flight to Newark, but apparently all the flights are overbooked because of cancellations yesterday. So we sit there and Cher tries to nap a little in the uncomfortable seats.
Its a short walk to the gate, and a short wait before boarding. We are on Air Canada AC 8863, in an Embraer E175. It's a smallish plane. Our captain is a woman!
The flight is about 75 minutes - we land around 9:30. There is an insane sunset. But there's a delay opening the doors to let us off so we stand there for 15 minutes.
Note: Check IPAd for DLed videos.
Note: soft glow for morning/golden hour photos?
